Gucci has appointed Demna as its new Artistic Director, marking a bold chapter for the storied Italian luxury house. The announcement follows the sudden departure of Sabato De Sarno after just two years in the role. Demna, who has led Balenciaga since 2015, will take the reins at Gucci starting in July 2025.
François-Henri Pinault, Chairman & CEO of Kering, stated in a press release: “Demna’s contribution to the industry, to Balenciaga, and to the Group’s success has been tremendous. His creative power is exactly what Gucci needs. As I thank him for everything he has accomplished over the past 10 years, I look forward to seeing him shape Gucci’s new artistic direction.”
Demna said in the same release: “I am truly excited to join the Gucci family. It is an honour to contribute to a House that I deeply respect and have long admired. I look forward to writing together with Stefano and the whole team a new chapter of Gucci’s amazing story.”
Gucci stunned the fashion world with the sudden departure of Creative Director Sabato De Sarno after just two years at the helm. In the wake of his exit, the brand’s design office took centre stage, presenting the Fall/Winter 2025 collection in Milan on February 25th. Stefano Cantino, CEO of Gucci, said in a press release: “I would like to express my deep gratitude to Sabato for his passion and dedication to Gucci. I sincerely appreciate how he honoured Gucci’s craftsmanship and heritage with such commitment.”
Francesca Bellettini, Kering Deputy CEO in charge of Brand Development, added in the same press release: “I sincerely thank Sabato for his loyalty and professionalism. I am proud of the work that has been done to further strengthen Gucci’s fundamentals. Stefano and the new Artistic Direction will continue to build on this and to guide Gucci towards renewed fashion leadership and sustainable growth.”
“Any important project relies on the passion, the intelligence and heart of extraordinary people,” De Sarno stated in an Instagram post. “To them I say: always look out for your joy. It is the true measure of whether you are true to yourself, whatever the opportunity, whatever the challenge. A thank you would not be enough maybe. But today my joy is for you.”
De Sarno, a 42-year-old Italian minimalist, stepped into the role of Gucci’s creative director after Alessandro Michele, who led the brand for seven years. Parent company Kering has been striving to regain momentum after its shares plummeted 60% over the past five years, according to Fortune.
Kering stated that a new creative director would be named in due time. Here’s a look at De Sarno’s tenure at Gucci, potential successors, and what his departure means for the Asian consumer today.
Gucci: A Legacy of Reinvention
Founded in Florence in 1921, Gucci has evolved from a small Italian leather goods shop into a global powerhouse synonymous with luxury and innovation. The brand has repeatedly redefined itself, proving that reinvention is key to longevity in fashion.
Tom Ford‘s arrival in the 1990s marked a turning point, injecting Gucci with a potent mix of sensuality and sharp tailoring that made it a cultural juggernaut. Under his watch, the brand’s sales skyrocketed, and Ford himself became one of fashion’s first true celebrity designers. When he exited in 2004, many questioned whether Gucci could maintain its momentum.
Frida Giannini‘s tenure saw a more understated approach, with her focus on heritage-inspired designs. But it was Alessandro Michele who ushered in Gucci’s maximalist renaissance, turning the brand into a playground of eclecticism, gender fluidity, and vintage-inspired opulence. His vision resonated deeply with millennials and Gen Z, driving explosion of sales and cultural cachet.
Who Is Sabato De Sarno, and What Did He Do For Gucci?
Before joining Gucci, Sabato De Sarno built an impressive resume in luxury fashion, holding key roles at Prada and Dolce & Gabbana before spending over a decade at Valentino. Rising to fashion director and serving as Pierpaolo Piccioli’s right-hand man, he honed a refined, minimalist aesthetic that stood in stark contrast to Alessandro Michele’s bold maximalism.
When De Sarno took over Gucci, he pitched a vision of luxury rooted in timelessness rather than fleeting trends, according to GQ. His approach focused on sleek sophistication, aiming to modernise house classics like the Jackie and Blondie bags while introducing Gucci’s signature “Ancora” red as a defining hue. He also brought in high-profile ambassadors, with stars like Paul Mescal and Bad Bunny showcasing his designs on the red carpet.
However, with sales slipping – down 25% in the first quarter of 2024 after a 21% decline over the previous nine months – his approach may not have had enough time to fully take hold. As Gucci looks ahead, the next creative director will have the opportunity to build upon De Sarno’s foundation while steering the brand toward renewed growth.
Why Did Sabato De Sarno Leave Gucci?
Gucci’s decision to part ways with De Sarno comes at a challenging time for the luxury industry, as global economic and political uncertainty has led to a slowdown in high-end spending. With Gucci’s sales slumping, a shift in strategy became imperative.
“Kering has many issues right now, but Gucci is core. If Gucci does not perform, Kering will not rerate, so they must get that right now,” Flavio Cereda, investment manager at GAM Investments, told Fortune.
Industry analysts suggest De Sarno’s minimalist, understated approach may not have aligned with consumer expectations for Gucci’s signature exuberance, as his designs “didn’t fit the exuberant image that consumers have built of Gucci in the past 30 years,” Luca Solca, an analyst at Bernstein Societe General, told Fortune. However, he also noted that this presents an opportunity: “Gucci now has the opportunity to reignite its brand heat. Kering’s shareholders will need the courage to push this through.”
De Sarno’s departure is part of a broader shake-up in the fashion industry, where creative directors are being replaced and interchanged at a rapid pace. As of early 2025, major brands like Maison Margiela, Fendi, Helmut Lang, Carven, and 3.1 Phillip Lim all found themselves without a creative director, according to Fashionista. This ongoing cycle of leadership changes underscores the pressure luxury houses face to stay relevant and financially strong in an evolving market.
Who is Demna, and What Could He Bring to Gucci?
After weeks of speculation surrounding Sabato De Sarno’s successor – names like Pierpaolo Piccioli, Hedi Slimane, John Galliano, Marc Jacobs, Simon Porte Jacquemus, and Maria Grazi Chiuri circulating in fashion circles – Kering’s announcement of Demna as Gucci’s new creative director marks a bold and exciting new chapter for the Italian house.
Demna, best known for his radical reinvention of Balenciaga, is no stranger to disruption. His tenure at the house transformed it from a heritage label into a cultural phenomenon, blending irony, subversion, and social commentary with high fashion. His approach – rooted in post-Soviet aesthetics, streetwear-infused tailoring, and an unapologetic embrace of the digital age – has often divided opinion but undeniably shaped the industry’s visual language over the past decade.
So, what does this mean for Gucci? De Sarno’s brief stint aimed to reinstate quiet luxury, a stark contrast to Alessandro Michele’s maximalist reign. If Demna takes the helm, we could see Gucci shift once again – perhaps toward an edgier, more conceptual identity, one that leans into his signature deconstruction, meme-worthy marketing, and politically charged messaging.
At a time when Kering is trying to revitalise Gucci’s sales, Demna’s appointment signals a high-stakes gamble. Can he balance his provocative aesthetic with the commercial demands of a megabrand? Will Gucci’s loyal clientele embrace yet another transformation? Time will tell.
What Does it Mean for the Asian Consumer?
Gucci’s struggle comes at a challenging time, with weakened demand from Chinese consumers – historically a crucial market for luxury goods. As a result, the brand is facing a particularly tough period. Barclays analyst Carole Madio told Reuters that a swift recovery may prove difficult: “Gucci has rather unfavourable cards in its hands – very exposed to China, middle-class income customers, and a brand that has been in decline for the last 3-4 years.” Madio added, “The top priority should be to make the brand more popular and fashionable again.”
This could involve re-engaging with younger, trend-driven shoppers while balancing the need for exclusivity with broader appeal.
BurdaLuxury’s Lens
Gucci’s current situation highlights both the challenges and opportunities within the modern luxury market, particularly in Asia. While economic uncertainty has led to a slowdown in Chinese consumer spending, Gucci still holds immense cultural cachet and brand recognition. The task ahead is not just about recovery but about reinvention – one that could position Gucci as an even stronger force in the luxury space.
For the Asian consumer, this shift could bring fresh excitement. With evolving preferences that priories exclusivity, heritage, and innovation, Gucci has the chance to re-engage its audience with bold new ideas and a reinvigorated brand identity. A carefully crafted strategy – one that blends modern appeal with timeless luxury – could help the house regain its momentum and even attract a new generation of luxury shoppers.
Ultimately, Gucci is at a turning point, but not necessarily a downturn. Demna has the opportunity to steer the brand into a new era, reconnecting with its core audience while redefining what Gucci means for the future of fashion. With the right vision, this could mark the beginning of an exciting new chapter for the brand.
