Donatella Versace, who has led the iconic fashion house for nearly three decades following the tragic murder of her brother Gianni in 1997, sent shockwaves through the industry last week with the announcement of her departure. The news, confirmed by parent company Capri Holdings last Thursday (March 13), comes at a pivotal moment for the brand – amid growing speculation that Prada is edging closer to a €1.5 billion acquisition of Versace, as reported by Reuters.
Her exit marks the end of an era for the house she helped modernise and expand, shaping its identity with bold, celebrity-driven glamour and a distinctly Italian sense of luxury. Now, as industry insiders dissect the timing of her decision, questions arise about the future of Versace under new leadership and the potential impact of a Prada deal on the brand’s global strategy.
Dario Vitale, formerly the Design and Image Director at Miu Miu – a brand under the Prada Group – will officially step into Donatella Versace’s role on April 1. His appointment signals a strategic shift for the fashion house, potentially aligning it more closely with Prada’s design philosophy and marketing positioning.
Donatella will transition into the role of Chief Brand Ambassador at Versace, a move that suggests she will continue to have a presence in the company’s public image and high-profile engagements, even as creative control shifts to new hands.
“It has been the greatest honour of my life to carry my brother Gianni’s legacy,” Versace wrote on Instagram. “He was the true genius, but I hope I have some of his spirit and tenacity.”
“I want to express my sincere thank you to Donatella for her trust in me, and for her tireless dedication to the extraordinary brand that Versace is today,” Vitale said in a statement, per NBC News. “It is a privilege to contribute to the future growth of Versace and its global impact through my vision, expertise and dedication.”
Vitale’s appointment and Donatella’s transition to Chief Brand Ambassador mark a major shift for Versace, one that could reshape the brand’s creative direction, strategy, and market positioning. But the biggest question remains: What does this mean for Versace’s future, especially in the ever-crucial Asian market?
The Legacy of Versace: A House of Bold Luxury
Founded in 1978 in Milan, Gianni Versace S.r.l. has long been a pillar of international fashion, synonymous with opulence, glamour, and Italian craftsmanship. From its inception, the house has been a trailblazer in the luxury industry, designing and manufacturing an extensive range of products, including haute couture, ready-to-wear, accessories, jewellery, watches, eyewear, fragrances, and home furnishings – all united under its unmistakable Medusa logo.
Versace’s global presence is reinforced by an extensive directly operated store (D.O.S.) network, comprising over 200 boutiques in key fashion capitals and a wholesale reach of more than 1,500 retailers worldwide.
Who is Donatella Versace, and What Has She Done for the Brand?
Donatella Versace is more than just a face of the brand – she has been its driving force for nearly three decades. Taking over as Artistic Director in 1997 after the tragic death of her brother Gianni, she upheld and modernised the house’s signature flamboyance, transforming it into a global symbol of glamour, power, and excess. Even before officially taking the reins, she was a trusted creative partner, having been appointed Head Designer in 1994.
Her leadership saw the brand evolve beyond fashion, expanding into luxury home furnishings, hotels, and lifestyle products while keeping its bold aesthetic at the forefront. She also revived the Versus line by appointing emerging designers like Christopher Kane, Jonathan Anderson, and Anthony Vaccarello, ensuring the brand remained relevant to a younger, edgier audience.
But perhaps Donatella’s greatest legacy is her mastery of cultural influence. She turned celebrity endorsements into an art form, making Versace synonymous with pop culture through high-profile campaigns featuring icons like Madonna, Beyoncé, and Lady Gaga. Her runway shows became more than just fashion events – they were spectacles.
Few moments in fashion history are as defining as Jennifer Lopez’s green silk chiffon dress at the 2000 Grammy Awards, a look so iconic that it led to the creation of Google Images. She also played a crucial role in the supermodel era, bringing together the likes of Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, and Claudia Schiffer to cement Versace’s reputation as the ultimate power brand.
Now, as she steps into the role of Chief Brand Ambassador, her departure signals the end of an era – one defined by fearless creativity, star power, and a relentless pursuit of glamour.
Why is Donatella Versace Stepping Down?
While Donatella Versace isn’t leaving the company entirely, her decision to step down as Artistic Director marks a significant shift for the brand. Her departure comes at a time when fashion’s creative landscape is undergoing rapid change, with major houses frequently reshuffling their leadership. Gucci, for instance, recently replaced Sabato De Sarno with Demna, formerly of Balenciaga, after just two years at the helm.
The timing of Donatella’s move has also raised questions about the future of Versace, particularly amid ongoing speculation that Prada Group may acquire the brand from Capri Holdings. Capri, which purchased Versace in 2018 for €1.8 billion including debt, also owns Michael Kors and Jimmy Choo, and some industry insiders believe a Prada acquisition could bring much-needed revitalisation to Versace.
Beyond corporate restructuring, Versace faces broader challenges in the luxury market, particularly in Asia, where demand has slowed. China, once a driving force behind luxury growth, has seen a shifting consumer preferences, with bold, statement fashion giving way to the rise of “quiet luxury.” Versace, long known for its extravagant, high-glamour aesthetic, has struggled to adapt to these evolving tastes.
“Versace has been struggling, so it’s not surprising that a change is being made,” David Swartz, an analyst at Morningstar, told Reuters. “The brand has lost relevance and has fallen behind similar European luxury brands. I don’t know if bringing in Dario Vitale is directly related to the potential sale to Prada, but it seems like it makes it even more likely.”
Despite the uncertainty surrounding Versace’s future, Donatella’s departure has been met with an outpouring of admiration and nostalgia from the fashion world. Celebrities and models who have worked closely with her – including Bella Hadid, Gigi Hadid, and Jennifer Lopez – have publicly honoured her contributions, celebrating the legacy she has built. While her next steps remain unclear, there is little doubt that Donatella’s influence on fashion will continue in the years to come.
Who is Dario Vitale, and What Will He Bring to Versace?
Dario Vitale may not yet be a household name, but within the fashion industry, his pedigree runs deep. Born in Naples, the 41-year-old designer graduated from Milan’s prestigious Instituto Marangoni in 2006 before cutting his teeth at Dsquared2 and Bottega Veneta. However, it was at Miu Miu – where he worked under Miuccia Prada and alongside the legendary Fabio Zambernardi – that he truly made his mark.
Vitale played a crucial role in shaping Miu Miu’s recent success, overseeing some of its most viral moments: the micro-mini skirts of Spring/Summer 2022, the bespectacled librarians of Autumn/Winter 2023, and the now-ubiquitious pantless trend, according to Dazed. His tenure coincided with Miu Miu’s meteoric rise, culminating in a staggering 93% surge in retail sales in 2024. His ability to tap into the cultural zeitgeist – balancing whimsy with commercial appeal – cemented his reputation as one of fashion’s quiet power players.
Yet, stepping into the Versace universe presents an entirely different challenge. Miu Miu thrives on subversive felinity and eclectic, offbeat charm, while Versace is the very definition of Italian maximalism – bold, glamorous, and unapologetically sensual. The real test for Vitale will be finding the sweet spot between these two aesthetics, modernising Versace without diluting its DNA. Will he bring a touch of Miu Miu’s intellectual irony to Versace’s high-octane glamour? Or will he lean into the house’s legacy of excess, but with a sharper, more contemporary edge?
What Does This Mean for the Asian Consumer?
Vitale’s appointment comes at a crucial juncture of Versace in Asia, a market where luxury tastes are shifting rapidly. China, once a major driver of demand for flashy, logo-driven luxury, has seen a turn toward quiet luxury in recent years, where understated elegance and artisanal craftsmanship are now in demand over overt branding. The rise of local homegrown Chinese brands have further fuelled this shift, with many consumers opting for regional labels that offer exclusivity and a sense of national pride.
While Versace’s bold prints and Medusa emblems have historically resonated strongly in China, this evolving landscape presents a challenge. As Chinese consumers increasingly gravitate toward subtle, refined luxury, Versace must find a way to modernise its image without losing the essence of its maximalist heritage. Vitale’s time at Miu Miu, where he blended intellectual irony with wearable, contemporary designs, could be an advantage in navigating this new era for the brand. If he can bring a more nuanced and refined edge to Versace’s Italian opulence, he might just succeed in rejuvenating the brand’s appeal in a rapidly changing market.
In this shifting luxury environment, Vitale’s approach will be key to ensuring that Versace not only maintains its relevance in Asia but also capitalises on the increasing desire for luxury that is both sophisticated and authentic.
BurdaLuxury’s Lens
Dario Vitale’s appointment as Creative Director of Versace marks a turning point for the brand, but it also signals the end of an era defined by Donatella Versace’s visionary leadership. Now, as Vitale steps in, he faces the challenge of carrying Donatella’s torch while navigating a rapidly changing landscape.
Donatella leaves behind a house synonymous with power and opulence, but as she transitions to her new role as Chief Brand Ambassador, her legacy will continue to loom large. Vitale has big shoes to fill, and the eyes of the fashion world will be watching closely to see if he can bridge the gap between Donatella’s bold vision and the changing tastes of today’s market. If he can strike the right balance, Versace will not only maintain its relevance but could also carve out a new future – one that builds on Donatella’s fearless creativity while embracing a more contemporary luxury.
