On October 15 2024, Victoria’s Secret Angels made their long-awaited return to the runway after a six-year hiatus, marking a momentous event in the fashion world. The show featured an eclectic mix of familiar faces, including iconic models like Adriana Lima, alongside some of the industry’s coveted stars such as Gigi Hadid and Alex Consani. Also gracing the runway were fashion veterans Kate Moss and Tyra Banks, whose presence underscored the brand’s enduring influence.
The announcement of Victoria’s Secret’s return sparked a range of reactions. While many celebrated the revival, others questioned whether the brand still resonated with today’s consumer. As women increasingly prioritise comfort, inclusivity, and body diversity in both intimate wear and fashion at large, some wondered if Victoria’s Secret had fallen out of step with these evolving values.
So, has Victoria’s Secret truly made a “comeback”? To answer that, it is important to consider the brand’s complex legacy and its attempts to evolve in an era of changing beauty standards and consumer expectations. The brand’s return isn’t just about a runway show – it’s about how it navigates these new demands. In particular, how its reinvention plays out in markets like Asia, where diverse representations of beauty are gaining prominence. This deep dive will explore these key issues, examining the balance Victoria’s Secret must strike between its storied past and the future of fashion.
Building a Luxury Brand in Asia
In the world of luxury fashion, Asia has become an essential battleground for global brands, and for companies like Victoria’s Secret, understanding the nuances of this market is key to regaining relevance. As a region, Asia is home to a diverse range of cultural values, body ideals, and shopping behaviours that vary significantly from Western markets. For luxury brands to succeed, they must not only cater to local tastes but also create deep emotional connections with consumers.
Dr. Daniel A. Langer, a luxury strategy expert and CEO of Équité, underscores that for brands like Victoria’s Secret to regain their position in Asia, they must “go beyond surface-level inclusivity and build a culturally resonant experience.” This means adapting product lines to better suit regional preferences, such as offering garments that align with local body types and comfort priorities.
The focus should be on creating localised product lines tailored to Asian body types and beauty ideals, all while preserving the brand’s distinctive charm. “Collaborating with respected Asian designers and influencers can lend authenticity to this effort,” Langer tells BurdaLuxury. Additionally, embracing experiential retail that fuses Western glamour with Asian aesthetics can offer a distinctive and memorable brand experience.
“The focus should be on building cultural capital, which is crucial for luxury brands in today’s market. This means not just changing products or marketing, but fundamentally aligning the brand’s values with those of Asian consumers,” he added.
Indeed, cultural understanding is critical. As Langer points out, “The story should celebrate cultural fusion, blending Western and Asian elements to appeal to global-minded Asian consumers.”
Highlighting the success stories of Asian women who exemplify the brand’s values can help craft relatable and inspiring content. “The key is to showcase how Victoria’s Secret’s legacy of glamour and sophistication is evolving to embrace diverse beauty standards while maintaining its core identity,” he explained. “This narrative must be authentic and consistent across all brand touchpoint to rebuild trust and attract Asian consumers who may have moved on to more relatable brands.”
Luxury Market Strategy: West v. Asia
The strategy that works in the West is not necessarily successful in Asia, where consumer preferences are rapidly changing. Traditionally, Western luxury brands have relied on exclusivity, status, and high glamour as their core selling points. However, Asia, and particularly China, has shifted its focus toward values like personal empowerment, comfort, and social responsibility.
In the Chinese market, there is growing demand for luxury that transcends simple opulence. Consumers are looking for deeper, more meaningful connections with the brands they support. According to a report from Bain & Company, the top 2% of customers account for about 40% of luxury sales, with China alone playing a significant role in shaping global trends. However, luxury is evolving in Asia, and brands that are able to successfully merge Western glamour with local values and expectations are the ones poised for growth.
“Modern Chinese consumers prioritise comfort alongside aesthetics,” Ashley Dudarenok, the founder of ChoZan and Alarice, told BurdaLuxury. “Victoria’s Secret should focus on designing products that cater to these needs, incorporating softer fabrics, adjustable features, and inclusive sizing options to appeal to a broader audience. This aligns with the trend of comfort-wear that has gained traction among consumers in China.”
Adapting designs to reflect local cultural preferences can enhance brand resonance. “This could involve incorporating traditional Chinese elements or collaborating with local designers to create limited-edition collections that celebrate Chinese culture and aesthetics,” explained Dudarenok.
Sustainability is also a growing factor – which can easily be incorporated into products. “This could include using organic fabrics or implementing recycling programmes for old lingerie, which may resonate well with younger demographics,” she added.
Victoria’s Secret History
Victoria’s Secret has long been a beacon of Western glamour, synonymous with sensuality and fantasy. Established in 1977 by Roy Raymond in California, the brand transformed the lingerie industry, offering a refined yet accessible alternative to the utilitarian styles of the time. By the 1990s and early 2000s, Victoria’s Secret had become a global phenomenon. Its iconic annual fashion show captivated millions, turning models like Gisele Bündchen, Tyra Banks, and Adriana Lima into international stars and cementing the brand as a cultural touchstone.
Despite its remarkable rise, Victoria’s Secret’s dominance in the lingerie market faced challenges as consumer attitudes evolved. The brand’s portrayal of beauty, centred around tall, slender models, began to feel increasingly outdated as women across the globe embraced diverse body types and called for greater inclusivity in fashion. This shift highlighted the need for the brand to evolve alongside its audience.
The 2010s marked a pivotal moment. While its “Angels” had once symbolised aspiration, they began to feel out of step with the growing demand for more inclusive and authentic representations of beauty and femininity. In response to changing societal narratives, Victoria’s Secret began a significant transformation, cancelling its famed fashion show in 2020 and committing to diversity, body positivity, and inclusivity.
Today, the brand is working to reclaim its place in the global market, building on its rich history while striving to align with contemporary values and redefine modern glamour.
The Brand’s Story and Strategy Change
Victoria’s Secret’s decision to overhaul its image in the wake of its fashion show’s cancellation is part of a broader effort to recalibrate the brand’s identity. At the core of this change is a shift towards inclusivity and empowerment. The once-exclusive brand is now seeking to position itself as more accessible, embracing a diverse array of models and brand ambassadors.
The 2024 return of the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show signalled this new direction. The event featured models of various body types, ethnicities, and genders, including curvier models and transgender individuals, signalling a departure from the brand’s former concept of beauty. This transformation was necessary to keep pace with shifting consumer expectations, particularly among younger generations who demand more representation and diversity from the brands they support.
This shift is especially crucial for Asia, a region at the forefront of the inclusivity movement in fashion. Asia has not only championed diverse body types but also celebrated individuality, setting a standard that brands like Victoria’s Secret must reflect to remain relevant and resonate with modern consumers.
“Victoria’s Secret can learn from the growing acceptance and demand for plus-size fashion in China by expanding its product range to include more size-inclusive options,” said Dudarenok. This rising success of plus-size models like Gong Zhen and influential figures like Yang Tianzhen underscores the growing embrace of body diversity and the evolving attitudes towards beauty standards. “By embracing this change, Victoria’s Secret can tap into the lucrative plus-size market, which is currently underserved but showing strong potential.”
Furthermore, since this year’s Paralympics, where China emerged as the top medal winner, the country has been placing greater emphasis on supporting and celebrating individuals with physical disabilities. “This focus is further highlighted by initiatives such as the recent Ability over Disability campaign. Although the attention given to the Paralympics isn’t yet on par with the Olympics, these efforts signal a positive shift,” said Dudarenok.
The EUNIC campaign, Ability over Disability, leverages cultural platforms to spotlight the resilience and achievements of individuals with disabilities. Its mission is to enhance the quality of life for disabled individuals and their families by promoting greater understanding, empathy, and support. The One Shoe Project, launched by Small on October 22, 2021, during the 11th China Disabled Games, addresses the needs of over 2 million amputees in China. It offers single shoes at half the price, aiding those unable to afford or use prosthetics. Supported by Chinese National Para Games athletes, the campaign also encourages other brands to participate.
“Indeed, there is a market to be had here and there are already active campaigns previously launched to cater to this population specifically,” said Dudarenok. “By focusing on the needs of individuals with disabilities, they can create products that cater to this demographic, such as adaptive clothing lines.”
Power of Rebranding: A Look at Victoria’s Secret Strategy
Rebranding is a critical element in Victoria’s Secret’s attempt to restore its relevance in both Western and Asian markets. The challenge, however, is to make this transformation authentic and coherent without losing the essence of what made the brand successful in the first place.
At the heart of the rebranding strategy is a focus on empowerment and authenticity. This involves not just shifting the imagery used in marketing but also rethinking product offerings.
“To create a meaningful emotional connection with Chinese and broader Asian consumers, Victoria’s Secret must emphasise narratives of empowerment and self-confidence beyond cultural boundaries,” stated Langer. “The brand should highlight the craftsmanship and quality of its products, appealing to the Asian appreciation for fine artistry.”
Moreover, Victoria’s Secret is moving toward a more experiential retail model, where the shopping experience itself becomes a key part of the brand’s allure. “Leveraging technology, such as virtual fitting rooms and AI-powered size recommendations, can enhance the online shopping experience, which is so critical especially in China,” said Langer.
Partering with Asian artists on limited-edition collections can spark excitement and create a sense of exclusivity. “Most importantly, the brand should focus on premium positioning, enhancing its storytelling and quality to justify higher price points and differentiate from mass-market competitors,” he said.
Victoria’s Secret Growth & China’s Response
China is central to Victoria’s Secret’s strategy for growth in Asia. As the world’s largest luxury market, China’s consumers are increasingly sophisticated and discerning, demanding more from brands in terms of fit, style, and sustainability. However, Victoria’s Secret faces fierce competition in this space, particularly from homegrown brands like NEIWAI and Bananain, which have capitalised on the growing demand for comfort and inclusivity.
During this year’s 618 shopping festival, local brands Ubras and Bananain claimed the top two spots in lingerie sales, with Victoria’s Secret securing third place. “A significant reason for this shift is the complaints from female consumers about the lack of diversity and inclusivity in brands,” said Dudarenok. “Victoria’s Secret not only needs to change its marketing strategy but also should reassess its product positioning.”
Victoria’s Secret’s efforts to adapt have included lowering prices and expanding its presence on e-commerce platforms like Small and JD.com. Recent promotions, which offer discounts of up to 60%, have helped the brand maintain its position in the market. However, consumer preferences in China have shifted, with a growing appetite for comfort-driven lingerie, which has seen local brands outperform Victoria’s Secret in recent sales figures.
Reviews frequently highlight praise like “high comfort” and “finally found a bra that fits.” “This indicates that, amid the current trend where Chinese consumers prioritise comfort, self-pleasure, and basic styles, the previously ‘sexy lingerie’ concept is adjusting its positioning to a more accessible ‘plus-size or comfortable lingerie’, seemingly gaining consumer favour,” shared Dudarenok.
Victoria’s Secret can revitalise its brand by embracing strategies that resonate with young consumers on platforms like Douyin and Xiaohongshu. One effective approach would be live-streaming, collaborating with top influencers or holding brand-led streams with ambassadors to showcase products in real-time. As seen with Bananain during the Double 11 shopping festival in 2021, live-streaming collaborations can create significant impact: “Partnerships with Li Jiaqi resulted in three live streams that contributed 39% of NEIWAI’s presale revenue,” explained Dudarenok.
Additionally, Victoria’s Secret can follow NEIWAI’s example in selecting KOLs that align with its ethos. “NEIWAI carefully selects KOLs that align with its brand ethos for in-depth collaborations, allowing influential bloggers to share styling tips and further bridge the gap between the brand and consumers,” said Dudarenok. “Data shows that NEIWAI’s KOL collaboration videos on YouTube consistently attract tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands of views, which not only directly boosts product sales but also significantly enhances the brand’s recognition and reputation in its target market.”
China’s overweight and obese population is projected to reach 65.3% by 2030, yet the plus-size market remains largely untapped due to societal stigma. “Many such individuals face limited fashion choices and discrimination based on their size, highlighting a need for more inclusive options,” said Dudarenok.
Recently, the Chinese fashion industry has begun embracing body diversity. Plus-size KOLs like Gong Zhen, photographed over 700 times for ads since 2020, and Yang Tianzhen, who launched the successful PlusMall in 2020, are leading the charge. Yang’s debut livestream drew 480,000 viewers, and PlusMall’s sales surpassed 1.5 million yuan. “The rise of plus-size livestreamers and brands on Taobao signals a more diverse era in fashion,” said Dudarenok. “Yang Tianzhen’s brand, PlusMall, has already seen significant success, with sales exceeding 1.5 million. In 2020, plus-sized womenswear online sales reached 15.6 billion yuan.”
BurdaLuxury’s Lens
Victoria’s Secret’s future in Asia hinges on its ability to evolve while staying true to its heritage of luxury and glamour. By embracing diversity, body positivity, and a more inclusive approach, the brand can reconnect with a new generation of consumers who expect more from the brands they support.
As the brand continues to transform, its ability to weave together its iconic history with an inclusive, locally relevant narrative will determine its place in Asia’s competitive luxury market.
In the coming years, Victoria’s Secret will need to prove that it can merge the old with the new – creating a brand experience that resonates emotionally with consumers while staying rooted in the values of quality, craftsmanship, and empowerment. For a brand with such a storied legacy, the path to reinvention is complex, but its future success in Asia will depend on how well it adapts to this changing, dynamic market.
