The New Faces of Fashion: What A$AP Rocky at Ray-Ban and Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela Mean for the Industry – and Asia

The New Faces of Fashion: What A$AP Rocky at Ray-Ban and Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela Mean for the Industry – and Asia

We’re only a few months into the year, but the fashion world has already seen major shake-ups. Demna has taken over Gucci, replacing Sabato De Sarno, while Dario Vitale has stepped in at Versace following Donatella Versace’s departure.

While these headline-making appointments have dominated fashion news, they’re just a glimpse of the industry’s ongoing transformation. A$AP Rocky has been named Ray-Ban’s first-ever creative director, bringing his cultural influence to the iconic eyewear brand. Meanwhile, Glenn Martens, known for his avant-garde vision at Y/Project and Diesel, is stepping into the role of creative director at Maison Margiela, marking a significant shift for the house.

These moves signal more than just new leadership – they reflect evolving creative directions and shifting brand identities. Here’s a closer look at what these changes mean and how they could shape the fashion landscape in Asia.

A$AP Rocky as Ray-Ban’s First-Ever Creative Director

Image Courtesy of Getty Images

A$AP Rocky, who was found not guilty of two felony counts of assault with a semi-automatic weapon in February after a 2021 altercation in Hollywood, has had plenty to celebrate lately.

The rapper and style icon has officially taken the creative reins at Ray-Ban, marking the first time the brand has appointed a creative director. To toast the occasion, he hosted an intimate dinner during Milan Fashion Week, drawing a guest list that included Brent Faiyaz, Ice Spice, Charli D’Amelio, and Romeo Beckham, as reported by Highsnobiety.

Rocky wasted no time making his mark. His debut designs include futuristic wraparound shades reminiscent of ski goggles, alongside Y2K-inspired frames that lean into nostalgia. The bold, colourful styles stand in stark contrast to Ray-Ban’s traditionally understated aesthetic. While the release date remains under wraps, anticipation is already high among fashion insiders and fans alike.

But why now – and why A$AP Rocky? His appointment signals a shift for Ray-Ban, blending its legacy with a more fashion-forward, culturally relevant approach. With Rocky at the helm, the brand is stepping firmly into the intersection of music, streetwear, and luxury – a space he has long dominated.

“I’ve always admired Ray-Ban’s ability to stay true to its roots while constantly evolving,” Rocky said in a press release. “I’m excited to be part of the strong heritage and develop the next chapter for an iconic brand like Ray-Ban.”

In a bold marketing move, Ray-Ban’s press release featured eight paparazzi shots of A$AP Rocky arriving at the LA courthouse, each capturing him in a different pair of the brand’s signature shades, according to GQ. The strategy taps into the rise of “courthouse stealth wealth,” a phenomenon epitomised by Gwyneth Paltrow during her 2023 trial – where her effortlessly polished courtroom looks became as much a talking point as the case itself. Like Paltrow, Rocky emerged victorious, further fuelling the narrative.

However, his longtime stylist, Matthew Henson, later told GQ that crafting a courtroom fashion statement was never the intention. “This was not a stunt, this was not a flex,” Henson said. “As much as our industry is a huge business and there’s so much planning, this was not one of those moments,” said Henson. “You see Rocky at Fashion Week, it’s a bit different. But this was real life.”

Whether deliberate or not, the imagery cements Ray-Ban’s move towards blending legal drama with sartorial storytelling – something few brands have dared to do.

A$AP Rocky has long been a force in fashion, seamlessly blending streetwear with high fashion and earning respect from industry’s biggest names. His fearless approach to style – whether it’s Dior or Bottega Veneta – has cemented his reputation as more than just a rapper; he’s a tastemaker with an undeniable influence.

His partner, Rihanna, is equally entrenched in the fashion world. As a longtime brand ambassador and the visionary behind her own beauty and fashion empire, Fenty, she has redefined celebrity entrepreneurship. With Rocky now stepping into a high-profile creative role at Ray-Ban, this could mark a strategic power move for the couple – one of music and fashion’s most influential drops. Their combined cultural capital is unmatched, making any brand they align with instantly more relevant.

For Ray-Ban, founded in 1937 and best known for its timeless aviators and wayfarers, collaborations have become an essential part of staying ahead. Its partnership with Meta on smart eyewear is proof of that, introducing AI-powered glasses equipped with a built-in camera, open-ear audio, and seamless media sharing. Ray-Ban Meta also collaborated with Coperni to reveal their campaign with Amelia Gray. By appointing Rocky, Ray-Ban isn’t just tapping into a musician’s star power – it’s aligning itself with a cultural leader who understands the intersection of fashion, technology, and street culture.

Glenn Martens is Maison Margiela’s New Creative Director

In January, it was announced that Belgian designer Glenn Martens would take the helm at Maison Margiela, succeeding John Galliano as creative director.

Martens, best known for his transformative work at Y/Project and Diesel, brings a distinctive mix of deconstruction, innovation, and playfulness to the table. His ability to balance avant-garde experimentation with commercial appeal has made him one of the industry’s most exciting creative forces. His appointment also reflects continuity within the Milan-based OTB Group, which owns both Diesel and Maison Margiela, reinforcing the company’s trust in his vision.

Image Courtesy of Getty Images

With Martens at the helm, all eyes are on how he will interpret Margiela’s storied codes – particularly its legacy of anonymity, deconstruction, and radical tailoring – while injecting his own forward-thinking sensibilities.

“I feel extremely honoured to join the amazing Maison Margiela, a truly unique house that has been inspiring the world for decades,” Martens said in a statement.

“I have worked with Glenn for years, I have witnessed his talent, and I know what he is capable of,” said Renzo Rosso, chairman of OTB Group, per the Business of Fashion.

John Galliano stepped down from Maison Margiela in December after a decade of redefining the house’s aesthetic, leaving behind a legacy of theatrical storytelling, artisanal craftsmanship, and an unapologetically avant-garde approach to couture.

Stepping into his shoes, Martens brings a similarly boundary-pushing vision, though with a distinctively modern edge. Martens has built a reputation for subverting traditional silhouettes, experimenting with exaggerated proportions, and injecting irreverence into high fashion. He even anticipated the viral Ugg moment before it took off, releasing internet-breaking thigh-high versions that became instant fashion catnip, as ELLE noted.

His deep understanding of deconstruction – one of Margiela’s foundational principles – combined with his couture sensibilities, suggests he will chart an exciting new course for the brand. While Galliano infused Margiela with a sense of poetic romanticism, Martens is likely to lean into his architectural, almost sculptural approach to design. His appointment signals not just a continuation of Margiela’s experimental DNA but an evolution that could make the house even more relevant to today’s fashion landscape.

What Does This Mean for the Asian Market?

Ray-Ban’s appointment of A$AP Rocky signals a new chapter for the brand – one that could have significant implications for Asia. The Asia-Pacific region has been a powerhouse for Ray-Ban’s parent company, EssilorLuxottica. In 2022, Reuters reported that the region was the group’s fastest-growing, with a 22.7% revenue increase in the third quarter, reaching €761 million. As more luxury and heritage brands tap into celebrity-led creative direction – like Louis Vuitton appointing Pharrell – Ray-Ban could see heightened traction in Asia, where brand collaborations and pop culture influence are key drivers of consumer engagement.

Maison Margiela also has strong ties to the Asian market, particularly through its eyewear collaboration with Gentle Monster, the cult-favourite Korean eyewear brand which has BLACKPINK’S Jennie as an ambassador.

However, OTB Group, Margiela’s parent company, has faced challenges in the region. Despite the brand’s sales surging 72.4% in mainland China in 2023, OTB shuttered several stores across China, including key locations in Shanghai’s IFC Mall and Hong Kong’s K11 MUSEA, according to Jing Daily. Still, the company remains committed to the market, stating that “China remains a priority” in an official announcement.

Beyond China, Japan continues to be a cornerstone market for OTB. The 2024 full-year results show that Japan accounted for 26% of the group’s total business, with sales in the region growing 16.3% at constant exchange rates – outpacing North America’s 13.3% growth. With Martens now at the helm of Margiela, his deconstructionist aesthetic could resonate with Japan’s fashion-forward consumers, further solidifying the brand’s presence in the region.

BurdaLuxury’s Lens

The rise of celebrity creative directors is no longer just a marketing gimmick – it’s a strategic shift in how brands engage with younger, digitally native consumers. A$AP Rocky’s appointment at Ray-Ban aligns with the growing demand for cultural credibility in luxury, much like Pharrell at Louis Vuitton or Rihanna’s multi-industry dominance. His ability to blend music, fashion, and streetwear makes him a natural fit for a brand that has long straddled classic cool and contemporary relevance. If Ray-Ban’s collaboration with Meta signalled it’s entry into the future of wearable tech, Rocky’s influence could push the brand into new, fashion-forward territory – particularly in Asia, where statement eyewear is a cornerstone of personal style.

As for Maison Margiela, Glenn Martens is one of the most exciting designers of the moment, and his appointment signals a return to the brand’s experimental, deconstructed roots. Given his success at Diesel – where he turned the label’s signature denim into viral, high-fashion moments – he’s well-positioned to inject a fresh, avant-garde energy into Margiela. With Asia’s luxury market still driving global growth, his tenure could reinvigorate the brand’s presence in the region.

Ultimately, these appointments mark a shift toward brands investing in cultural tastemakers – a move that acknowledges the power of pop culture in shaping modern luxury. If executed well, these creative shifts could solidify Ray-Ban and Margiela’s standing among Asia’s fashion-conscious consumers, proving that celebrity-driven design is more than just a headline-grabbing stunt.

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Faye Bradley

Contributor

Faye Bradley
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